It’s a shame that a hail storm cut a swathe through the Golden Grove vineyard in the 2023 vintage and wiped out their Mourvèdre fruit because both 2023 reds and whites are looking excellent – commiserations to GG.
I know I keep saying it but Warren consistently makes one of the best Mourvèdre wines in the country and this one is not only congruous with that achievement it excels as being in the top tier of Warren’s Mourvèdres.
The colour in the glass is quite a magnificent display of energised purple, dark radiating red and deep brooding black. The very first whiff carries vast intensity loaded with berries, charcuterie, spices and earth. The power of the bouquet carries so much anticipation that you’d think the palate couldn’t possibly deliver that promise – but it does!
The palate is full rather rich with black fruits, some mulberries, a little aniseed and an earthiness. A lovely quality is the early surge of charcuterie and jamón serrano. The overall balance is excellent with oak, acid, fruit and tannin expertly integrated. A feature of the wine is how it deceives new comers to the variety – initially the fruit swell is lovely, mouth-filling with an enlivened excitement and this continued caressing palatal experience creates an impression of gentle power. However, after the first swallow you begin to notice a response seemingly from every cell in your taste buds as they are tugged and dried by chalky tannins and this sensation continues with a growing emphasis beyond 1 minute. I find this tannin crescendo to be a sheer delight and something I look forward to in the best examples of mourvèdre. A well made mourvèdre is a wine I can never seem to resist, I bought 4 of these and that’s nowhere near enough. Recently I just had to contact Sue to order more.
I ran into Mark Ravenscroft in Brisbane on 29/11/2024 he told me he was headed to The Granite Belt the next day and staying with Sue and Warren. I told Mark to be sure to try this wine but apparently Warren was so impressed by his 2024 wines he showed them to Mark in barrel. Is it possible the 2024 Mourvèdre will be even better than this one?
Tasted: Saturday 29th March, 2025 without food and then with over several hours.
Alcohol: 14%
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $45
Suggested Drinking Window: now to 2043+
Winemaker: Warren Smith
Fruit Source: Estate
Oak: Old French and Old American
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