There are a few very good Malbecs on The Granite Belt. The Bungawarra 2018 made by Tom Battle is a great example, Ballandean Estate also produce one. Jeff Hardin told me there are 5 Malbec producers, I’ll have to track down the other two.
This Golden Grove rendition is quite a big wine. It is black and impenetrable even quite close to the meniscus.
At the meniscus there are deep red and purple plum colours but you get the impression the wine is reluctant to reflect much, instead a deep refraction to darkness features in the wines personality.
The label suggests spicy ripe plums are held in the bouquet and I agree, there is also some slightly smoky and cedary oak, some tar and old leather, a little cardamon becomes evident and some dark soil with minerals.
A fulsome palate begins with the big ripe dark plums applying their significant weight and wanting to assert an experience that leaves you compelled of their enduring ability, those plums also contain cardamon and are sprinkled with minute amounts of cinnamon and express a slight sweetness. Eventually but not until they are certain you have been convinced the plums begin to give way to a little leathery and tarry taste, next minerals and earth join the menagerie and the dusty and earthy tannins are fine, smooth and with a little drying quality. The acid is well balanced and, although there is a slight sweetness from the ripe fruit the main palatal drive is quite savoury and the textural effect is smooth and juicy.
All in all a great Granite Belt Malbec from Golden Grove featuring the significant power of fruit weight that seems to hallmark many of the 2019 drought year red wines, this one extracted and developed into a beautifully balanced yet powerfully surging wine by wine maker Ray Costanzo.
Although I have encountered them numerous times now I am still filled with an appreciative curiosity whenever I see these brilliant new Golden Grove labels.
Tasted: Saturday 12th June, 2021 without food and then with over several hours.
Alcohol: 14%
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $35
Suggested Drinking Window: now to 2030
Winemaker: Ray Costanzo
Fruit Source: Estate
Whole Bunch: 15%
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