I first tasted this from tank in May this year, it had just been treated with bentonite but showed lots of promise. The wine does contain some artistry – one portion sees time on skins for 10 days, another sees some leesy barrel ferment for 2 months, then there is some free run juice and lastly some pressings. Ray Costanzo told me when I purchased this bottle on 21st July this year that it still needed some time in bottle to fully express. So I waited until now to try it.
It’s a radiant light green straw in the glass with an expressive effusive bouquet that is quite floral and wafts the flesh covered stones of stone fruit, some citrus zest and bright fresh apples in an energetic excitability. The wine certainly exhibits the classic sea spray aromas which, in this case, is an early evening breeze off the ocean lapping at your nostrils as you stroll lazily along the beach.
The palate expresses the artistry in the wine making it has a lovely textural creamy quality that interacts with the fruit power and acid. The outcome of this is a harmonious coexistence of these factors that celebrates individuality co-existing with community – texture with tang and creaminess with bite. White flesh peaches, green apples, pears, pineapples and a plethora of stone fruits surge along the textural mouthfeel and some citric acidic drive extends the experience. A lovely crushed stony minerality starts to present around two thirds of the wines length and simultaneously gives rise to a little galangal spice and very late there is a slight grapefruit bitterness which yearns for a great food match.
Another great success joins the continuing lineage of The Granite Belts Maestro of Vermentino. If you enjoy Vermentino but have never tried one made by Golden Grove’s Ray Costanzo you really must indulge.
Tasted: Sunday 10th October, 2021 without food and then with over several hours.
Alcohol: 12.5%
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $35
Suggested Drinking Window: now to 2023
Winemaker: Ray Costanzo
Fruit Source: Estate
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