I had a conversation with Jeff Hardin from Bungawarra Wines at the Magnificent 7 event in October last year. We had just tasted his 2018 Malbec made by the new Bungawarra wine maker Tom Battle. This was an exceptional Malbec, Jeff told me that he believes Malbec will become one of the great varieties on The Granite Belt, it’s grown and produced in 5 vineyards. I wasn’t as enthusiastic as Jeff, with the odd exception, I hadn’t really felt the love from Granite Belt Malbec. However his 2018 suggested possibilities I hadn’t genuinely entertained previously. Those possibilities have been strongly affirmed by this 2018 Golden Grove Malbec.
A very deeply coloured wine in the glass but also quite bright and reflective and a lovely soft pastel red at the edges. Swirl this one in a big glass and return often for a sniff. There are black plums, black pepper and cloves, a little road tar is evident and some earthy wafts combined with a little cedary oak. The palate is well balanced with more of those dark plums which are quite savoury. Hold the wine in your mouth for awhile and purse your lips, place your tongue in the yoga position near the roof of your mouth and touching the back of your upper teeth but don’t suck in air. Hold this for awhile and then let your tongue relax so that it touches the back of your bottom teeth and then move your tongue from side to side and then up and down as you slowly swallow … as you do this you’ll notice the wines flavours explode inside your mouth. The resultant caress is soft and savoury, the tannins are fine, the acid is fresh but not tangy, great mouthfeel and very good length as the wine is rather reluctant to part company. A meditative wine, perfect for combating the isolation blues!
This wine has the kind of balance that allows you to drink it now if young wines are your preference. I intend putting it down for quite a few years before opening another – we’re all different 😊
These 2018 and 2019 vintage wines from the Granite Belt are the best successive vintages I have tasted, they are hallmarked by elegance and power while displaying complexity and interest I’m not sure I have encountered such consistency across all the labels I have tasted so far. I’m very excited about visiting the region this July.
Tasted: Saturday 30th May, 2020 without food and then with over several hours.
Alcohol: 13.8%
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $30
Suggested Drinking Window: now to 2030+
Winemaker: Ray Costanzo
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